Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Tay Ninh Travel Guide



Tay Ninh Travel Guide
There is only one reason tourists visit this town northwest of Ho Chi Minh City: to see the Cao Dai Temple—the main cathedral. Caodaism is a homegrown Vietnamese religion that mixes many traditional Eastern religions with Christianity, animism, and the teachings of Victor Hugo and Joan of Arc, among others. The Great Temple, built in 1880, is fascinating—it's garish and surreal, with an altar dominated by an enormous, suspended globe decorated with glitter and a large, painted eye. The

building is a whirl of details, painted in pinks, greens and yellows. Try to get there at least a half-hour before the daily noon service, which is attended by hundreds of worshippers. Men and women sit on opposite sides of the church in brightly colored robes—red, blue and yellow for Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. We highly recommend this excursion—see it on the same day you go to the Cu Chi Tunnels. If you get an early start and don't mind a long day, push on 10 mi/15 km to the northeast to Nui Ba Den, a sacred mountain in an otherwise flat area. There are temples, pagodas and panoramic views to enjoy on the path up. 60 mi/100 km northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

Tay Ninh Travel

Geography
Located in Eastern of the South, Tay Ninh shares border with Cambodia on the north with 240km boundary, Binh Duong and Binh Phuoc provinces on the east, Ho Chi Minh City and Long An Province on the south.

On the north, there is Ba Den Mountain, 986m in height. On the south, terrain is quite flat. The province has Vam Co Dong and Sai Gon rivers and Dau Tieng Lake.

Climate: The weather is hot, humid around year with annual average temperature of 27.5ºC, annual rainfall of 1,724mm. The dry season lasts from December to April and the rainy season lasts from May to November.

Tourism

Coming to Tay Ninh, tourists are able to visit Ba Den Mountain, a famous complex of cultural and historical sites and beauty spots, and Binh Thanh Cham Tower, a monument of the Oc-Eo culture. Every year, Ba Den Mountain Festival attracts many pilgrims come to pray, sightseeing and enjoy the entertainment.

Tay Ninh is home of Cao Dai religion with Tay Ninh Cao Dai Temple, a complex of Great Temple, Chanh Mon Gate, four towers and Mother-of-Buddha Temple. The province also is base of revolution of South Vietnam during resistance against the Americans.

Transportation

Tay Ninh Town is 99km from Ho Chi Minh City, 224km from Vung Tau, 129km from Bien Hoa. There are Moc Bai and Xa Mat border gates to Cambodia. Moc Bai Market is trade center of Vietnamese and Cambodian.


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Monday, January 25, 2010

The Years Before the War




The Years Before the War

The seeds of the Vietnam War were sown in 1945, when the country was divided into the two halves that would see millions die before reunification in 1975. The end of World War II ended the short Japanese occupation, and Ho Chi Minh declared an independent Vietnam. A few weeks later, the French, who had been temporarily ousted from their colony by the war, returned to, as General Jacque Philippe Leclerc famously declared, “claim our inheritance". Ho Chi Minh accepted the French presence as preferable to aggression from China, but the Vietnamese would continue to fight for independence until they achieved it in 1954.

Under the Geneva Accord of that year, hammered out between France, Vietnam, Laos, China, Cambodia, the Soviet Union and the United Kingdom, foreign involvement in Indochina affairs would cease, and the country was divided at the seventeenth parallel. The South was ruled by the staunchly anti-Communist Ngo Dinh Diem, the North by the Communist Party. The next few years would see the slow infiltration of the South by Communist forces, increasing evidence of Diem’s corruption, and the expansion of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, used to move people, weapons and supplies from the North to the South. By the end of 1960, the campaign to ‘liberate’ the South was in progress, and the National Liberation Front (‘NLF’, later to become widely known as the Viet Cong) had been founded.
The US Enters the War

The US had at this point been involved in Vietnam for years, first funneling money to the French, then propping up Diem’s increasingly unpopular government - all in the name of fighting Communist expansion. The Gulf of Tonkin Resolution, passed in 1964 by the US Congress after two highly disputed attacks on American destroyers[1], gave President Lyndon Johnson carte blanche to wage war against the NLF. US aircraft began dropping bombs on the North, the first American prisoner of war was captured, and in March 1965, combat troops arrived in Danang. The war had begun. By the end of the year, there would be over 200,000 US troops in Vietnam.

B52s dropping bombs1966 saw the first use of B-52 bombers by the US, and the Southern forces managed to take control of Hue and Danang, both major cities. Such strong US support for the South had not been expected in Hanoi, and the initial vision of a quickly achieved unification was rapidly replaced by the realisation that this was to be a long, drawn-out conflict. The North had initiated compulsory military conscription in 1960, and it now altered its strategy to one of ‘protracted war’, whereby they would ‘bog down’ the US in a lengthy, unwinnable war, and make it politically unfeasible for US troops to remain. Ultimately, though costly in terms of Vietnamese and American lives, this was successful.

Operation Cedar Falls began on 8 January 1967, a campaign to oust NLF forces from an area just north of Saigon known as the ‘Iron Triangle’. A massive two-and-a-half-week assault, this was the war’s single largest ground operation, involving over 30,000 American and Southern Vietnamese troops. The area had long been an NLF stronghold, and home to the Cu Chi tunnels, a series of underground refuges where NLF troops would hide, sometimes for weeks at a time. Although Operation Cedar Falls made use of saturation bombing, artillery fire and intense patrols seeking to root out the Communist fighters, it was largely unsuccessful. Within two days, the NLF had reentered the area, and it would become a staging ground for the next year’s Tet Offensive.
The Tet Offensive

Marines in Hue shelter by a wall during the Tet Offensive30 January 1968 was the beginning of a three-phase operation designed to inspire an uprising among the people of southern Vietnam, and to provoke the American public into rebelling against a war that had long since fallen out of favour. The Tet Offensive, the most well-known of all the war’s battles, was launched on the first day of the lunar new year, Vietnam’s most important holiday and a day on which both sides had previously agreed they would hold their fire. The NLF diverted attention from the plan by massing troops near Khe Sanh, then 80,000 NLF fighters attacked more than 100 towns and cities, catching US and southern forces completely unprepared. The NLF was quickly beaten back in most places, but fighting continued in Hue for almost a month, leaving thousands of civilians dead and the city nearly razed to the ground.

While the North suffered huge casualties compared with the relatively few American deaths, the Tet Offensive was a psychological victory and is widely regarded as a turning point in the war. Anti-war protests in the US has been growing, and the unwelcome news that the government had been misleading the public about the NLF’s ability to launch such a large-scale attack turned opinion firmly against. In March, President Johnson would announce that he would not run for office again, and made it clear he wished to end the war.
Nixon Intensifies Attacks on Vietnam

Nixon Richard Nixon took office in January of the next year, and ordered the bombing of Cambodia, in an effort to destroy Communist supplies and strongholds. The war continued apace, with no pause at the death of Ho Chi Minh on 2 September 1969. In November, news of the My Lai massacre (16 March 1968) finally reached the US public. The atrocities committed by the US army on the villagers of My Lai provoked serious questions about how the war was being conducted, who was in charge, and what was actually happening. The US was by now relying increasingly on an air war and sending some soldiers home, leaving Vietnamese troops to defend the South on the ground.

Between 1969 and 1972, peace talks were in progress, but produced little result. A major stumbling block was the insistence of the North Vietnamese on the deposition of South Vietnam’s President Nguyen Van Thieu, to which the US government was unwilling to agree. These years also saw ferocious US bombing of Cambodia, and the use of Laos (also officially ‘neutral’) as a battleground. In 1971 Australia and New Zealand withdrew their soldiers from the conflict, and American troop numbers were reduced to less than 200,000. The war intensified, however, in December 1972, with what were known as the ‘Christmas bombings’. Nixon, in an attempt to win concessions from Hanoi at the conference table, ordered heavy bombing of Hanoi and Haiphong, the North’s biggest cities. These were roundly criticised by the international community.
The War Draws to a Close

Signing the Paris Peace AccordsThe end of Vietnamese-US hostilities came with the signing of the Paris Peace Accords 27 January 1973 by chief negotiators Henry Kissinger and Le Duc Tho. The Accords stipulated a maximum of sixty days for the withdrawal of all US troops (which was followed, only a few technicians and agents remained) and called for elections to be held in the North and the South (which was not). Prisoners of war were exchanged. The war between Vietnam and the US was over, but the battle for the country would rage for another two years.

After the departure of the Americans, the advantage moved from the North to the South and back again. The NLF improved the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which eventually became a drivable road, a far cry from the dangerous mountain pass of a few years before. The North was receiving more funding from the Communist bloc, while US Congress had cut American aid to the South. In December 1974, the NLF took the town of Phuoc Binh and - when it was clear the US would not intervene - this signalled the beginning of the end.

10 March 1975 saw the North take Ban Me Thuot in the Central
Highlands, a surprisingly easy victory. Inspired, the NLF quickly moved further south, taking Hue and then Danang. With the bulk of the South’s defences eradicated, they continued progress southwards, the remainder of the opposing army rapidly collapsing.
The Fall of Saigon

In a symbolic move NLF tanks crash through the gates of the presidential palace in SaigonAs the NLF neared Saigon, the few remaining Americans evacuated, taking some Vietnamese friends and families with them. Those who had been employed by the army, fearing for their lives when Saigon fell, were especially desperate to get out, but many were forced to remain behind. Some would be deported to the countryside, others to re-education camps.

On 30 April, NLF entered Saigon, driving a tank through the gates of the Presidential Palace and raising its flag. The war was officially over. Between three and four million Vietnamese had died, but Vietnam had finally ousted its last occupiers.

Written By Nell McShane Wulfhart. Images used are in the public domain

Bus Travel, Open Tours & Sinh Cafe


Bus Travel, Open Tours & Sinh Cafe

One of the most popular modes of transport for visitors to Vietnam, particularly among budget travellers, are the Open Tour buses that operate between all the major stops on the tourist routes. While these can be handy if all you want is a quick trip up the coast, we would strongly encourage travellers to look further afield for a more interesting, genuine experience of Vietnam.
Open Tours - Sinh Cafe, T M Brothers, Hanh Cafe & Phuong Tran

100s of people wait for a Sinh Cafe Bus
Hundreds of people wait for Sinh Cafe buses

These operators are famous in Vietnam among travellers and have pretty much become the default mode of transport for any backpacker passing through the country. It can't be denied that they offer a cheap service whose hop-on, hop off system is flexible to suit indecisive travellers who decide they really want to stay another day in one town and skip another.

Yet it is this default, generic feel to the tours that make them so mind numbingly, crushingly dull. I would love to be able to recommend one company over the other but the truth is there is so little to tell them apart it would be difficult to say so.

Perhaps it is fair to say Sinh Cafe and PT have the most modern fleet of buses - yet my most recent experience of Sinh Cafe involved 2 hrs of delays before an irate assistant herded us onto a small city bus with no leg room or a/c before verbally abusing us, so I am also hesitant to recommend them on this basis. The fact we'd paid more than double the ticket price for the privilege of travelling a week after a national holiday didn't exactly sweeten the deal either.

This is mass market, industrial tourism at its finest - the phrase 'meat market' certainly sprang to mind a few times on that last trip. True, it gets the job done but it certainly doesn't leave you with a feeling of wonder nor is it likely to lead to the kind of chance encounters that make a journey through another culture so special.

If you want to leave Vietnam enamoured with the country and people, longing to return one day, this probably isn't the best way to travel.
The alternative

There are hundreds of local bus companies that run regular routes from city to city. Catch these buses and not only will you make some savings on your tickets but you will be travelling with Vietnamese people rather than yet more tourists who have been to the same places you've just been and you will most likely see in every place you visit for the rest of your trip too.

The opportunity to chat to people who live in the country you are visiting who are not waiters, hotel receptionists or other members of the tourist industry is great, and offers up a great chance to learn more about the country you are visiting.

It is also common for large bus companies to run buses as often as every half an hour, rather than at one or two fixed times per day like to open tour operators, meaning you have a far great flexibility in when you depart and arrive in your destination - no lost days or dead time while you wait for that night bus.

It is true that some smaller bus companies may over-load their buses or stop to pick up more and more passengers on the way, but by going with a trusted brand you can ensure you have a smooth journey in a cool spacious bus.

In general I prefer travelling by train whenever possible, but when I need to take a bus I am extremely fond of Mai Linh, who now have buses that cover almost the entire country. Their staff are friendly, their services frequent and punctual, their buses cool and comfortable and their prices are cheap. Most importantly, they don't overload buses, they drive safely and direct to the destination - no roadside stops for more passengers.

Budget Airlines between Vietnam + South East Asia

Budget Airlines between Vietnam + South East Asia

In the last couple of years there has been a dramatic increase in the number of no-frills budget airlines serving Vietnam, offering travellers an alternative to the heavily potholed roads of Cambodia and Laos on the way in and out of Vietnam. While they can be handy for those short on time, we really would advocate travelling overland where possible - both from an environmental perspective and because when you travel over land you get to meet more people and learn more about the countries you are passing through.

Air Asia - Based in Malaysia, Air Asia provide flights connecting Kuala Lumpur (KL) and Bangkok to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), with fares starting as low as $16 one way before taxes. Most of their connecting flights depart from KL, where it is possible to fly on to Australia, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Macau, the Phillipines, Singapore and Thailand, as well as many destinations within Malaysia

Bangkok Airways - Offers flights between Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok, and was awarded Best Regional Airline by SkyTrax in 2008. From Bangkok you have a choice of several destinations within Thailand, or flights on to Burma/Myanmar, Male in the Maldives, Guilin and Xi'an in China, Macau, Luang Prabang and Vientiane in Laos and Hiroshima in Japan

Nok Air - Has suspended flights between Bangkok and Hanoi, and currently only offers domestic flights within Thailand.

JetStar, JetStar Asia & JetStar Pacific - Jetstar, which has been flying cheap routes from Australia, Singapore, Bangkok and New Zealand to Vietnam for a while has recently formed a partnership with domestic carrier Pacific Airlines, offering budget flights around Vietnam at a discount to Vietnam Airlines' rates. In addition to these domestic and international routes from Vietnam, connections from Singapore include routes to Jakarta + Denpasar Bali in Indonesia, Hong Kong, Manila in the Phillipines and Taipei in Taiwan as well as Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in Cambodia. From Australia it is also possible to reach Japan and Hawaii with Jetstar, but it would be a fairly inefficient route!

Tiger Airways - Tiger Airlines offer routes from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Singapore, where the airline is based. From Singapore it is possible to fly on to Haikou, Shenzen and Guangzhou in Chinam Bangalore and Chennai in south India, Phuket and Bangkok in Thailand, Manilla in the Phillipines, Macau, Padang in Indonesia and a good number of destinations in Australia. In 2009 they plan to expand into South Korea with connections on to Mongolia, Russia, China and Japan.

Viva Macau - Viva Macau offer cheap flights directly between Ho Chi Minh City and Macau, where you can take flights on to Tokyo, Okinawa, Sydney and Jakarta.

Getting Around Vietnam

Getting Around Vietnam

Vietnam is an exceptionally easy country to travel in, with many options for travel by bus, train and plane - all of which are surprisingly cheap. Even private car or taxi hire (with a driver provided) can be quite reasonable if you need to get somewhere in a hurry - or should you wish to explore some places off the beaten track.

In general we believe the most enjoyable, relaxing and interesting way to travel around Vietnam is by train, but this may not always be possible if you plan to visit the central highlands. Read on for our guides to travelling by domestic airlines, buses and trains across the country.

Taxis in Saigon - How to avoid being taken for a ride






VinaTaxiTaxis are a surprisingly cheap way to get around the major cities in Vietnam - and if need be, its event not too prohibitive to take a taxi between cities. In Saigon the crowded streets and haphazard construction can make walking a very hot and tiring exercise so it can be quite a relief to hop into a nice cool taxi when you are starting to wear out.

In general cross city taxi travel in Ho Chi Minh City between major tourist sights can be achieved for $1-2, occasionally up to $5 or $6 if you need to travel a particularly long way - for instance from downtown Dong Khoi area up to Chinatown. The vast majority of taxi drivers are very courteous, helpful and safe drivers, if a little too fond of their horns at times, so you should feel free to relax and enjoy the scenery as you drive.

That being said, taxis are not closely regulated and if you do not travel with a trusted brand you may find the meter has been fiddled and you are paying over the odds. The government have recently been holding a crackdown on dodgy taxis at the airport in o Chi Minh City which appears to have been quite successful, but it seems little is being done to put a stop to overcharging in private taxis in town.

To help visitors and expats new to the city we've put together a guide to the taxis to trust and those to avoid. Its quite easy to stick with the trusted brands if you follow our guide below - and if you feel you are being taken for a ride, just ask the driver to pull over and choose another cab. You will have to pay whatever is on the meter if you want to avoid a very lengthy argument, so it is better to stop and do so sooner rather than later!

Since most drivers only speak Vietnamese do bear in mind that at times a detour they are taking may be to avoid heavy traffic and roadworks to get you to your train, bus or plane on time, rather than to inflate the meter. There may be a few crooks operating tourist taxis but the majority of taxi drivers are legitimate, so try to avoid taking a cynical view on your travels - you will enjoy your time in Vietnam a great deal more!
The taxis to avoid

It may have a meter, but..

It's a dead giveaway really. You will see many of these taxis hovering in the tourist areas, outside backpacker ghettos, museums and late night bars but rarely picking up local passengers .. What do they know that you don't?

Taxi Du Lich

It's quite simple actually - painted on the side or on the roof are the words "Taxi Du Lich" - which translates as 'Tourist Taxi'. While I generally like to advocate supporting independent traders chances are you are more likely to pay much more for your fares in one of these than in a taxi run by a major company.
Taxis we know and love

Vinasun

Vinasun - Possibly one of the most comfortable fleets - at least in Saigon - Vinasun have cool, clean and spacious cars and seven seater 'people carrier' style taxis. Their meters start low - around 12,000 Dong - and the drivers are friendly and helpful

Mai Linh Taxis

Mai Linh - One of my favourite transport companies in Vietnam, Mai Linh are building an empire on good service and fair pricing. I always use their buses when I have the choice and their taxis are great too - though the larger vehicles in their taxi fleet are a little boxy compared to Vinasun's, but to be fair I am a fair bit taller than your average Saigon resident.

VinaTaxi

VinaTaxi - bright and yellow just like new york taxis, Vinataxi are cheap and cheerful. Meters start at 9,000 Dong which perhaps reflect the age of the fleet - they were the first taxi company in Saigon and some of the cars are beginning to look a little sad and old. Still, they are dependable and very competitively priced, so you can't complain.
The following are also great value:

Although you may not see so many of them, all of the following cab companies will give you a decent rate and a comfortable journey.

Savico
Savico
Saigon Tourist
Saigon Tourist

Hoang Long

(i forgot to take a picture of this one but it'll be up soon!)
PetroVietnam
The pretenders


Vinamet

Definately not a Mai Linh

Sadly success often leads to copycats in Vietnam and the same is true of taxis. Therefore if you see a 'Vinamet', 'Vinameter', 'Lai Minh' or similar play on one of the popular brands above chances are its a fake and given the slightly unscrupulous adoption of their competitor's names it is fairly likely they may be just as unscrupulous when it comes to setting their meters.